One Ocean left the Arctic Circle on September 12 and on this momentous day, we were interviewed by Jason D’Souza from All Points West, CBC Radio. Since then, we’ve been ducking and weaving through storm system after storm system along the Labrador Coast. The coastline has been nothing short of astounding—with whales, bears, dolphins, dramatic geography, spectacular northern lights, and, of course, storms. Our next stop: Lark Harbour Newfoundland and then Guysborough, Nova Scotia, where back-to-back presentations await.
There was a storm brewing off Labrador – one that quickly grew into back-to-back systems, nearly hurricane strength. We pushed One Ocean hard to reach shelter, aiming for the most northern settlement on Labrador Island, Nain, an Inuit community nestled in the wilderness. Storms of that size were not something we wanted to ride out in the open Labrador Sea.
It was late when we arrived – 2330, another time zone crossed, our third in just a couple of weeks. In darkness, everything looks different, unfamiliar, and the bay felt unsettlingly vast. Creeping forward, searching for 35 feet of depth, something suddenly caught someone’s eye – a round, glistening object rising from the black water off the starboard side. “Rocks! All hands-on deck!” Sure enough, the spotlight revealed massive boulders lurking just beneath the surface. My heart pounded as we drifted back. Did I mention how much I hate coming into unknown ports at night? At last, Mark set the anchor. After ten days at sea, dodging icebergs and wrestling heavy weather, we were utterly spent.
The town of Nain revealed itself in daylight. It was smaller than it had loomed in the dark, hugged by mountains, dotted with brightly painted houses, late-summer wildflowers, and especially exciting to the crew … trees! The day quickly filled with chores. Rod, the local fuel guy said he could squeeze us in later that afternoon. On One Ocean, Mike was covered in grease, but smiling! He would be able to fix the water maker. While Mike finished up the water maker, the rest of us scrubbed down One Ocean.
Waves were hammering the dock where we planned to tie up for fuel. Our only hope was the ferry that was scheduled to come in might serve as a breakwater. And then, the ferry was spotted steaming up through the channel toward Nain. We moved One Ocean hastily to the dock and finished tying up just as Rod rolled in with the fuel truck.
By late afternoon, we had ticked off much of our To-Do List: water, diesel, boat cleaned, and even a tiny bit of laundry. Spirits soared. The small restaurant was packed with people stranded due to the storm. Like the grocery store, the restaurant was short on stock – common in these remote places – but what they did serve was excellent. Wine, too!
When we stepped outside, the world had changed. Rain pelted sideways, wind howled through the darkness, and back at the dock, One Ocean was taking a beating. The wind had clocked around, and the ferry was no longer a shield. Fenders flattened against the dock. We scavenged more from a nearby fish boat, but our lines on board were strained. The captain of the ferry boat, a warm Newfoundlander from St. John’s, along with his crew didn’t hesitate to help. His crew worked with calm precision: hand-tossing a line across a mighty gap from one dock to another in the gale, threading it through another vessel, and winching us gently off the dock. Seamanship at its finest.
By night’s end we were safe, sheltered, and immeasurably grateful. Nain had not been on our itinerary, but it left a lasting impression. The town is as beautiful as it is remote, surrounded with mountains, and people who are quick to lend a hand.
The storm may have battered us, but it also brought us to a place where kindness shone through. Cheers to Nain, and to the captain and crew of the ferry Kamutik W.
By Jennifer Dalton
Photos: Crew of One Ocean
Buoy 168, the LU Wolverine, was dropped and it has been tracking some incredible data. During a series of strong storms off the coast of Labrador, the buoy recorded waves reaching 18 feet!
