There are moments on the water when the scenery just grabs you by the soul and whispers, “Stop here. Stay awhile.” Today, that whisper turned into a full-blown serenade as I pulled into Toba Wilderness Marina, tucked like a hidden gem at the mouth of the mighty Toba Inlet.
I had heard murmurs from other cruisers that this was the stop to make when heading through Desolation Sound — not just for its setting, which is ridiculously cinematic (think waterfalls cascading from cloud-wrapped mountains), but because the marina itself was created with real intention. It turns out, the story behind it is as compelling as the view.
Toba Wilderness Marina is the passion project of a group of fishers — people who’ve spent their lives on this coast and wanted to create a refuge for fellow mariners. Not a fuel dock with a gift shop, not a club hub — a sanctuary. And my goodness, have they nailed it.
I was lucky enough to be greeted by Nahanni, the marina manager, who gave me a personal tour of the property. She’s warm, welcoming, and clearly passionate about this place. And honestly, it’s hard not to be. From the moment I stepped off the dock, I felt like I’d landed in some West Coast version of Narnia — if Narnia had Wi-Fi and hot showers.
Let’s start with the docks: immaculate, Solid, Spacious. Shore power and water are available on the docks, but the view struck me most. Looking up Toba Inlet from your slip is like staring into the lungs of the planet – towering forested cliffs, mist curling off the mountaintops, and Bald eagles soaring overhead.
You’ll want to book early, though. Reservations are mandatory through Dockwa, and I can see why — this isn’t a place you want to miss.
Now, let’s talk about the upland area. This place is borderline glamorous. Think eco-resort vibes with West Coast styling. There’s a large cedar pavilion—I hesitate to call it a “gazebo” because that feels too quaint for what is essentially an open-air lodge. Underneath, there’s designer-level outdoor furniture and a stunning fire pit where guests gather in the evening with glasses of wine and stories of the sea. There is even a book exchange if you’re looking for your next great read. The new washrooms and showers are spotless and clean.
There is a series of well-laid-out trails with a number of options. Starting with more of a leisurely meander along the shoreline (perfect for spotting seals or daydreaming) and another that zigzags steeply up to the top of the waterfall. You’ll hear it before you see it — that deep, echoing roar that makes you feel very small in the best possible way.
The trails are beautifully maintained; and if you have energetic dogs in your crew, they’ll love it here. There’s even a large open field just off dockside — ideal for playing fetch, cartwheeling, or collapsing on a picnic blanket to stare up at the sky and think “how is this place real?”
Toba Wilderness Marina isn’t a provisioning stop or a refueling dock. There’s no general store, restaurant, or cell service, although the marina does have Starlink for guests.
This is a place where you go to remember why you bought a boat in the first place. To connect. To exhale. To wake up to the call of loons instead of the hum of air conditioners. To sit under a wooden canopy with strangers who feel like old friends by the time the fire dies down.
It’s quiet here. Peaceful. The kind of peaceful you don’t even realize you need until you’re standing in it, breathing deeply and wondering when you forgot to slow down.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. And next time, I’m staying longer.
If you’re cruising Desolation Sound this summer, add Toba Wilderness Marina to your itinerary and book your slip through Dockwa. Just don’t forget your hiking shoes — and maybe a bottle of something special to share around the fire.
You can read more about Toba Inlet and Toba Marina on page 307 and 308 in the 2025 Waggoner Cruising Guide.
Article by Melissa Gervais
Waggoner Field Correspondent
Photos: Dale Blackburn, Field Correspondent
Melissa Gervais, Field Correspondent
Lorena Landon, Managing Editor
