Tribune Bay is famous for its beach. That’s certainly why boaters keep going back. But on this trip, I discovered something that had been hiding in plain sight all along. Just ten minutes inland is a little collection of shops that completely changed the way I think about stopping on Hornby Island.
When the weather cooperates, Tribune Bay is one of those magical anchorages that almost doesn’t seem like British Columbia. The water turns shades of turquoise you expect to find in the Caribbean; children spend hours swimming off the beach; paddleboards drift lazily across the bay; and dinghies come and go carrying beach towels, coolers, and sandy feet.
I certainly didn’t anchor there, thinking “This would be a great place to buy groceries.” Then, completely by accident, I discovered I had been doing Tribune Bay wrong.
Like many boaters, I’d pull the dinghy onto the beach, enjoy a swim, maybe go for a walk, and head back to the boat. It wasn’t until someone casually mentioned there were shops nearby that curiosity got the better of me.
Nearby? As it turns out, very nearby.
From the beach, it’s only about a ten-minute walk through a shaded trail to what can only be described as a hidden little village. It isn’t something you’d notice from the water, and unless someone tells you it’s there, you’d probably never think to look.
The only challenge is the dinghy. The tide at Tribune Bay has a habit of reminding you who’s really in charge. Before heading ashore, make sure you’ve anchored your dinghy well or pulled it up high enough on the beach. I carry two anchors for our inflatable, which has been a lifesaver because at low tide on Tribune, there are no logs or rocks to tie to. And nothing ruins a leisurely afternoon of shopping faster than wondering whether your ride home is still where you left it.
Once you’ve crossed the parking lot and followed the trail, the reward is immediate. Instead of one small corner store with a few shelves of groceries, you’ll find an entire collection of businesses that make provisioning surprisingly enjoyable. There are stores on all four corners of the intersection!
The Hornby Island Co-op is the anchor of it all and has become one of my favourite island grocery stores in the Gulf Islands. You’ll find most everything you need from fresh produce, pantry staples, and snacks, to frozen foods, and a liquor store.
But then there’s the basement.
Who expects one of the best little hardware departments on Hornby Island to be hiding underneath a grocery store?
As every boater knows, hardware stores have an almost magnetic pull. You walk in looking for a hose clamp and somehow leave with cable ties, stainless screws, CR 2023 batteries, and three other things that seemed absolutely essential the moment you saw them. And yes, they have butane for the crab cooker.
The Co-op understands island life, which means it also understands boaters.
If you want a bit of an adventure before shopping, the Hornby Bus (fare-by-donation) is a fun way to explore more of the island, whether you’re heading to Helliwell Provincial Park, Ford Cove, wineries, or simply taking the scenic route. The round trip takes about an hour, and it’s one more reason to turn a provisioning stop into a full day ashore.
Don’t Miss the Hornby Island Bakery & Pizzeria
There is one stop, however, that deserves its own heading.
The Hornby Island Bakery & Pizzeria has been voted Canada’s Best Pizza, and after eating there, I’m inclined to believe it. Whether there’s a secret family recipe or some mysterious ingredient hidden in the sauce, I can’t say. I have my own theory that there must be some sort of addictive substance in it because once you’ve had a slice, you’ll find yourself planning your next visit before you’ve finished the first.
My advice is simple, order your pizza first.
The wait is usually 30 to 45 minutes, but that’s actually perfect. Place your order, then wander through the Co-op, browse the garden centre, pick up a few groceries, indulge in an ice cream, and explore the local shops in the Ringside Market. By the time you’ve finished, your pizza is coming out of the oven.
More Than a Provisioning Stop. The more I cruise the coast, the more I appreciate places that surprise me.
Tribune Bay will always be famous for its spectacular beach, and rightly so. It is one of the most beautiful anchorages in British Columbia. But now, whenever I drop the hook there, I know the beach is only half the experience.
A ten-minute walk through the trees leads to groceries, a surprisingly good hardware store, local art, clothing boutiques, a charming garden centre, ice cream, fresh baking, and what may very well be the best pizza in Canada.
Who knew? Certainly not me.
Article by Melissa (Missy) Gervais
Waggoner Field Correspondent
Photos: Melissa Gervais
