After the crew’s successful sail off Cape Horn, s/v One Ocean returned to Puerto Williams on Beagle Channel, where they received a warm welcome home. The crew spent several days in Puerto Wiliams before heading back northwest through the protected inland waters of Patagonia. Here’s an excerpt from Jenn Dalton’s report.
Puerto Williams gave us space to reflect – not just on the miles sailed or the goals achieved, but also the people we’ve met along the way – sailors, teachers, students, scientists, and strangers who opened their doors and their lives to us. There is still much more to come. But Puerto Williams – there is something extraordinary here.
There is a warmth in this town perched along the cold waters of Beagle Channel, backed by the jagged, snow-capped peaks of the Dientes de Navarino, where colorful fish boats and small sailboats rock gently at their moorings; the air carries the scent of woodsmoke, sea salt, and the coming change of seasons.
It all began with a serendipitous meeting – Leo, John, and Nacho in a small local restaurant. Leo a journalist, was in town filming a documentary on the Cedena Sailing School, following five students preparing for an expedition that would sail all the way to South Africa; Nacho is an instructor at Cedena Sailing School about to head out with the students. John is a sailor, climber, wing base jumper, citizen scientist and adventurer, he already knew about the Around the Americas Expedition. He had read One Island, One Ocean from the earlier voyage fifteen years ago. And here we were, at what the town proudly calls the end of the world, in a dimly lit crowded restaurant, meeting someone who had been inspired by that earlier journey. That kind of full-circle moment feels like magic.
Summer vacation had ended and the new school year had just begun. Across the slough, near the old macalvi (dock) – a half-sunken ship now serving as the town’s marina – children waited along the beach. A small boat came to collect them. They climbed aboard laughing and waving, their lifejackets bright against the emerald green water. Here sailing is part of the regular school curriculum. More then seventy students participate – not only learning to sail, but learning how to contribute on board – cooking, sewing, navigation – real skills for real life at sea.
We were deeply impressed, not just by the structure of the program, but by the mutual respect between students and staff. We were immediately welcomed into their world. When we shared our mission and research, we were met with wide-eyed curiosity and excitement. At the end of the day, it was difficult to pack up and leave.
When we had returned to Puerto Williams after rounding Cape Horn, we were welcomed with such warmth that it felt less like visiting and more like returning home. Even in the simplest moments – walking past the town school as classes let out, parents lined the road, and nearly every student waved – recognizing us from our presentation days earlier.
It’s those small moments that stay with you. When the town heard about the loss of our dinghy, help came quickly. Within hours, there were offers and ideas. By the next morning, we had leads on a replacement dinghy and motor, thanks to John.
I could go on about how extraordinary this place is. The people. The wild horses wandering the hills and streets. The deep quiet of the forests. The raw, untamed beauty of the surrounding landscape. And for a brief moment, we were part of it.
Article/Photos: Jenn Dalton and Crew
s/v One Ocean
At press time, One Ocean and crew anchored in Bahia Tilly on Isla Carlos III to await storms before continuing northwest through Patagonia’s Strait of Magellan, then turned northward to anchor in protected waters at Isla Hosa from which they presented their live broadcast for the fundraising event that took place in Anacortes, WA on March 28. A Big Thank You to all of you who made donations in support of this worthy cause for science and school student outreach.
