The Golden Spruce by John Vaillant is a must read for anyone planning a visit to Haida Gwaii, formerly known as the Queen Charlottes. This true story documents the relationship between the early days of logging and the more recent logging activities on the islands, which resulted in a resurgence of the Haida culture. The book follows Grant Hadwin, who after many years as a logger, set out to deliver an environmental message.

Grant Hadwin was well known among the logging industry in British Columbia for his exceptional felling techniques, athletic ability, and wilderness survival skills. Later, after finishing a college degree, he became a commercial timber scout and layout engineer and road builder. Working in this capacity, he was one of the last to see stands of old-growth trees intact before they were stripped from the land. By the 1990’s, he increasingly became involved in environmental issues. His own stress-induced paranoia, led him to believe that people were physically out to get him. After a doctor’s evaluation, he was given a prescription which seemed to help. He continued his letter writing to logging companies and government agencies, outlining his concern regarding clearcutting, but they went mostly unheeded.

In the mid-1990’s, Hadwin decided to visit Haida Gwaii, referred to then as the Queen Charlotte Islands. While there, he visited The Golden Spruce, a unique specimen standing between Skidegate and Port Clements along the bank of the Yakoun River. When Hadwin arrived on the Islands, much of the northern islands had been “shaved bald.” The Haida had staged several anti-logging campaigns in the 1970’s and 1980’s; and in 1987, the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve was established, saving the southern third of Haida Gwaii from logging, and at the same time preserving historic Native village sites.

The Queen Charlottes had been forgotten since the collapse of the sea otter trade, but had been rediscovered during WWI for its Sitka Spruce – light in weight and flexible, ideal for making airplane wings and fuselages. “The Golden Spruce” was an extremely rare species that shimmered in the sunlight due to its golden needles; a tree that was one in a billion.

After a trip to Alaska, Hadwin returned to Haida Gwaii in 1997, where he gave away all of his possessions. He then purchased felling wedges, a Stihl chainsaw, and checked into the Golden Spruce Motel in Port Clements with plans to cut down the Golden Spruce. He endured the physical ordeal of reaching the Golden Spruce by swimming across the river with his equipment in tow, not to mention the skill and strength needed to cut down the large Sitka Spruce with thick buttresses and ridges at its base single-handedly. When finished, Hadwin packed up his gear and swam back across the Yakoun River in the dark of night. He gave away his chainsaw the following morning to an acquaintance in Old Masset, and left for Prince Rupert.

When the downed Golden Spruce was discovered, people of the Islands were stunned and heartbroken, especially the Haida who considered this 300 plus year-old tree to be sacred. According to Haida belief, a young Haida boy transformed into the Golden Spruce, when contrary to his grandfather’s warning, looked back to see his village that had been destroyed by a severe snowstorm. Hadwin had wanted to bring attention to what he believed was the real crime, clearcutting vast areas of forest, he apparently was unaware of the significance of The Golden Spruce, or was he? The Mounties arrested Hadwin and ordered him to appear at the courthouse in Masset on April 22nd (Earth Day). Not considered a flight risk, Grant Hadwin was released on a $500 bail.  However, many people of the community, as well as throughout British Columbia, were ready to “string him up,” Hadwin’s court appearance was moved to an earlier date in February.

Hadwin was no doubt concerned for his life; but at the same time, the courtroom offered a public forum for his cause. For his court appearance, Hadwin planned a mid-winter crossing of Hecate Strait to Haida Gwaii by kayak. Did Grant Hadwin successfully cross the Strait, or was he planning to stage his own disappearance? And what became of the legacy of The Golden Spruce? For those who may think this true story is too sad to read, take heart; a surprising ending awaits with sprigs of hope. We highly recommend picking up a copy of The Golden Spruce.