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Bob Hale tries to find the pictographs on the rock wall at the entrance to Gorge Harbour. |
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Chatterbox Falls at the head of Princess Louisa Inlet. |
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Marilynn Hale stretches her legs at Rebecca Spit Marine Park. |
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Another beautiful scene. Jervis Inlet. |
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What a team! Bob and Marilynn Hale at the helm in Desolation Sound. |
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UPDATES FOR DESOLATION SOUND TO THE TOP OF VANCOUVER ISLAND

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Cell Phone Service at Pierre’s at Echo Bay 
June 28, 2010. Pierre’s at Echo Bay Marina has cell phone service at the store and on the adjacent party area. They’ve brought it in with antennas and amplifiers, and the cone of availability is necessarily narrow. No charge. Bring your cell phone up and talk away.

Wireless internet still covers the docks. This report is being sent that way.

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First Trip to the Broughtons 
May 17, 2010. The following e-mails speak for themselves.

Hello,

We are planning our first trip to the Broughtons. Can you tell us whether Lagoon Cove is open for business this summer (July 2010)? What about the docks at Minstrel Island? Is that facility still abandoned?

Thank you. Ginnie

Reply

Hi, Ginnie,

I think you’ll enjoy the Broughtons. Be sure to bring something for get-togethers around 5:00 p.m. at the various marinas. One smart cruiser we met sticks with brownies. He brings boxes and boxes of brownie mix and never has to worry about what to take to potlucks (so don’t bring brownie mix).

As far as we know Lagoon Cove will be open and roaring. We plan to stop there. As for Minstrel Island, last summer the place felt fairly abandoned. The docks were safe enough to use, but not maintained.

Bob Hale Editor/Publisher

Response

Hi Bob. Thanks for the quick reply containing good news re Lagoon Cove and good advice re taking something for the potlucks. Rest assured, we’ll follow your advice (no brownies).

We have loved and relied upon your book for many years. Thanks for being a fabulous resource!

Ginnie

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Changes at Sointula 
April 26, 2010. Correspondents Guy and Kathryn Campbell from West Vancouver bought and are refurbishing a small house in Sointula on Malcolm Island, a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. Sointula is a favorite stop for us each year. Here are some changes to expect this summer.

Hi, Bob & Marilynn,

We just returned from a couple weeks at Sointula and boy are things hopping up there. The Marina is expecting to complete its major work by July. This includes approximately 1200' of new ADDITIONAL docks with new pilings, full power and water, plus a new ramp etc. Many of the old docks have been redecked. Wireless Internet is expected to be operating for the docks this summer.

The Marina may have dock attendants this year.

On the water side of the road across from the Co-op Store, the old cafe is expected to be opening soon as a Bistro Gallery. It will be run by Dan (the butcher at the Co-op Store) and his wife.

Aug. 7th will be the 3rd annual PAWRADE (pet parade) through the streets of downtown Sointula.

This will be the second year for the Farmers Market to be held on various days July through Sept. Sorry, I don't have exact days.

There's also a new bakery being planned.

There's a new bird viewing walkway to be started soon along the water east of the Cemetery. The walkway will extend for several miles, with benches and platforms etc.

Hope you're both well. We look forward to seeing you.

Guy & Kathryn

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Blind Channel Resort Spring Newsletter 
April 16, 2010. We've just received Blind Channel Resort's new spring newsletter. Click here to see it!

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Greenway Sound Lives Again! Resort to be Open this Summer 
March 12, 2010. Put Greenway Sound back on the list of stops to make this summer. On March 10 Trip Rumberger, who played UW football in the Don James era and was on the 1978 Rose Bowl team that beat Michigan, completed the purchase of Greenway Sound Marine Resort in the Broughtons, and will have it open this summer. Bob Bishop will be in charge of the facility. Chef Susan Kalin will be running the restaurant. Tom and Ann Taylor will be on site as “training wheels,” showing them the ropes (sorry for the mixed metaphors). The restaurant should be open by early July. Greenway’s now-famous pizzas may be available sooner.

All of Greenway’s services—moorage, power, showers, laundry, store, park, air service, wi-fi and more—will be available. Trip will be there, and he says their four grown children will show up at various times during the season to help out.

We’re very, very pleased.

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Blind Channel Events Schedule 
March 11, 2010. Hi, all,

The deciduous trees are still bare around here, but the the flocks of birds resting in them tell us that summer isn't that far away, and we'd better let people know what we have scheduled this year. We're celebrating the 40th anniversary of the family's arrival on the island, and everyone's invited.

June 20th -- Fathers' Day BBQ lunch
July 1st -- Canada Day fireworks
July 25th - 2nd annual Pooch, Hound, and Doggy Show
August 14th -- 40th anniversary bash, includes live music and a buffet dinner
July and August -- BBQ lunch served daily on our seaside patio

Please phone in advance for groups.

Mid-July to mid-August -- Join us every Sunday after lunch service for a complimentary Blind Channel Garden Tour.

Cheers,
Phil Richter
Blind Channel Resort
1-888-329-0475

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Pierre’s 2010 Event Schedule 
February 22, 2010. Pierre’s Echo Bay Resort in the Broughtons is the busiest marina destination we know of. Here’s their winter newsletter and summer events schedule.

Welcome to Pierre’s Echo Bay 2010 !!!

Hi everyone! Once again, we are amazed by the wonderful response to our presence at the Seattle Boat Show! We greeted many old friends and met new ones at our “hugging and laughing booth”. We’re looking forward to meeting up with you again in Pierre’s Echo Bay!

Attached, is our new 2010 Summer Schedule (43 KB), however it is not yet posted on our website. (Please feel free to pass it on to your friends.) We are open to others doing spontaneous or planned presentations or skits or whatever. It is you, our guests, who make Pierre’s the special place that it is!

New in Pierre’s Echo Bay this year? More docks and possibly a surprise or two.

There are many other wonderful marina, resorts, and services in our area. We support all of them. No one of us has it all, but between all of us we can give you a well rounded wilderness experience. We promoted everyone at the Seattle Boat Show and will be glad to give you further info when we see you this summer.

Also, LLC Representatives (Windsong) would like Pierre’s Echo Bay to operate the property known as Windsong. Guests at Windsong (the Cliffside across from Pierre’s Echo Bay), will have access to services and amenities at Pierre’s Echo Bay.

Of interest to all of us is protecting the health of our oceans and the wildlife within… Our friend Alexandra Morton has worked tirelessly to this end for so many years. To learn of or to support Alex’s work go to www.RaincoastResearch.org or www.adopt-a-fry.org

First time guests: Pierre’s Echo Bay accepts credit cards; Cdn cash; U.S. cash; Cdn cheque; U.S. cheque; Traveller’s Cheques. U.S. friends, please let your credit card company know, before you begin your cruise that you will be using it in Canada. Canadian friends, please let your credit card co. know that you’ll be using it outside the city you normally do. Thanks.

Early birds heading to Alaska, please be aware that the marina is open all year ‘round.

Like to stop and smell the roses? Pierre could use a hand with a bit of painting, banging a nail or two or whatever during the months of April, May and June – in exchange for free moorage. Go for it! Thank you all! You’re wonderful. Contact: info@pierresbay.com

Our website lists our home Canadian airlines… check it out. Like to fly some guests in from the U.S.? North West Seaplanes will have scheduled service to Pierre’s Echo Bay Click on www.nwseaplanes.com/flights-to-echo-bay-bc.cfm as will Kenmore Air www.kenmoreair.com

Effective Jan. 23/07, a current passport will be required for all persons traveling by scheduled air carrier between the U.S. and Canada, regardless of the traveler’s citizenship or age. For more info: http://travel.state.gov

Wishing you the very best!
Pierre & Tove and Jerome & Lucy

Pierre's Echo Bay
info@pierresbay.com
www.pierresbay.com
VHF Chan 66A - Pierre’s Echo Bay
(250 ) 713-6415 or 663-8905
Mailing Address: General Delivery, Simoom Sound, B.C. V0P 1S0

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Racon Added to Gordon Channel Nav Aids 
February 9, 2010. Nav aids at each end of Gordon Channel at the top of Vancouver Island now will be transmitting racon signals.

Pine Island at the western entrance will transmit Morse M (--)

Davy Rock at the eastern entrance will transmit Morse Q (--.-)

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Aquaculture Proposal Threatens Gorge Harbour Ecology, Marina 
November 6, 2009. Richard Glickman’s letter, below, is shocking. I try to stay out of politics and local land and water use issues, but the effects of the proposed shellfish farm on Gorge Harbour and on the marina would be devastating. At the end of Richard Glickman’s letter you can read the letter I wrote to Mr. Albrecht and Ms. Vollema. I encourage those who visited Gorge Harbour this year and saw the improvements to write your own comments.

Dear Fellow Boaters

By way of introduction, Michelle and I are the proprietors of the Gorge Harbour Marina located on Cortes Island in the Desolation Sound area. We purchased the marina five years ago and have rebuilt it making it one of the most environmentally sound marinas on the coast. The marina is an important part of the community, providing locals and boaters with groceries, boat and car fuel, water and social activities. It is also one of the largest employers on the island. Michelle and I purchased this marina because we had seen so many of our favourite marinas on the coast being privatized and others becoming older and in many cases unsafe. We believe that tourism is an important part of the coastal economy and worked hard to provide public access to a safe high quality facility.

The Gorge Harbour as most of you know is located at the northern most point of the Strait of Georgia and is one of the safest and most pristine all weather anchorages in the region.

We are at risk of losing this key anchorage and in seeing the facilities of the Gorge Harbour Marina Resort close down.

Last week we received notice from the BC Provincial Government’s Integrated land Management Bureau (ILMB) that Taylor United, a shellfish producer from the US and the Klahoose have formed a partnership and applied for a licence to occupy almost 40 acres of the anchorage directly in front of the marina. This shellfish lease would be almost five times the size of the largest one in the Gorge and would occupy most of the key anchorage adjacent to the marina. It would create a significant navigational hazard both during the day and night. Larger boats approaching and leaving the marina would have a great deal of difficulty in transiting our waters.

This concern, in addition to the environmental impact of 3-5 million additional oysters in this small body of water makes this proposal unacceptable to anyone with reason. We are supportive of shellfish farming but it is critical that this application have a public process and an environmental assessment prior to approval. I have attached the proposed lease map and have indicated the location of the marina. Proposed Lease Map (380 KB) Klahoose Application Package (1,060 KB)

It would be very helpful if you were to let provincial and federal officials involved know your concerns over this proposal, the loss of the anchorage, the marina and any other concerns that you may have. It is important that your emails and letter are sent soon such that they become aware of the significance of this application.

Letters or emails should be directed to Mr. Ken Albrecht of ILMB. (Address and email provided below) It is imperative that we ask for a public stakeholder process on this matter. It would also be critical to send your concerns to Shannon Vollema with the department of Navigatable waters.

Mr. Ken Albrecht Integrated Land Management Bureau 142-2080 Labieux Road Nanaimo BC V9T 6J9 Ph. 250 751 7220 Fax: 250 751 7224 Email: Kenneth.Albrecht@gov.bc.ca

Ms Shannon Vollema Nav Waters Email: Shannon.vollema@tc.gc.ca

Thank you for your attention on this matter.

Dr. Richard and Michelle Glickman

The Waggoner’s letter

Dear Mr. Albrecht:

Dr. Glickman’s letter is very disturbing. The proposed water lease would deny a prime, protected anchorage area in a section of the coast exposed to strong southeast winds from the Strait of Georgia, with no other good anchorages nearby. Without question, public safety would be compromised.

As Dr. Glickman points out, the environmental impact must be considered. Access to Gorge Harbour is through an extremely narrow, constricted channel that restricts flushing. The ecology of the bay is sufficiently delicate that Gorge Harbour is one of only 11 designated black water “no discharge” zones in coastal B.C. waters (others include Victoria Harbour, Prideaux Haven, Squirrel Cove and Montague Harbour). It should be unthinkable to allow the waste produced by such a large project to enter a no-discharge bay.

Dr. and Mrs. Glickman have made a huge investment to turn a down-at-the-heels property into the finest marina/camping/RV resort in these waters. It provides enjoyment for tourists, jobs for residents, and supplies for the entire island. The proposed shellfish lease would harm the property’s attractiveness. Dr. Glickman fears it may force the property to close down. This cannot be viewed as a good trade-off.

You may wonder why an American is writing about a proposed shellfish lease two hundred miles away. Let me explain. I am the founder, editor and publisher of the most popular pleasure boating guide to the Inside Passage, Puget Sound to Prince Rupert. Every year, I visit the public ports and private resorts along the coast to keep the book up to date. What Dr. and Mrs. Glickman have done at Gorge Harbour is extraordinary, and this water lease could destroy it all.

Please act in the interests of public safety, protect Gorge Harbour’s fragile ecology, and preserve the magnificent development that does so much good for Cortes Island. Please deny the water lease application.

Sincerely,

Robert Hale Editor/Publisher Waggoner Cruising Guide 1803 132nd Ave. NE, Suite 4 Bellevue, WA 98005 Tel: (425)881-5212

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How the Elworthy Island Plaque was Installed 

November 6, 2009. Ted Thorstenson, who designed and built the 45-foot Pacific Dawn, sent this note about how Elworthy Island in Waddington Channel got its name, and how the plaque marking it came to be.

Bob

I was reading the Waggoner writeup about Elworthy Island and the plaque dedicating the island to Douglas Elworthy. I can elaborate on this subject.

When we saw you in the Octopus Islands, I think I shared with you and Marilynn that one of my life adventures was being an engineer on the fish packer Chimo IV for a couple of summers. My skipper on Chimo IV was Jens Freylund, a great guy who commercial fished halibut for years. Jens and I became good buds and have stayed in touch since that time.

A very good longtime friend of Jens is Terry Elworthy, the brother of Douglas Elworthy, who the plaque commemorates. Douglas was serving on the Empress of Asia when a bomb was dropped on her in Singapore.

For years, Terry strived to have an island named after his brother. Finally, after much red tape, concerted effort and persistence, Terry heard from the government. There were two islands he could choose from. One was on the west coast of Vancouver Island, the other was in Waddington Channel. Terry chose Waddington Channel.

Terry had a plaque made and several times had arrangements organized for delivery and placement. Each time the plans fell through.

So . . . Jens phoned me. After the usual polite greetings and inquiries, Jens said, "I want you to do a favor for a friend of mine." My response was an instant "Absolutely!" I would do favors for a lot of people, but for certain I would do anything that Jens asked -- he is one of those good guys.

I phoned Terry Elworthy, introduced myself, and told him we would get the plaque placed on the newly named Elworthy Island come hell or high water. I asked for the plaque’s dimensions, the mounting provisions, and how he envisioned its placement. I built a form and let Terry know the volume of premixed quick cure concrete needed when he, his wife Bobbi, and Jens would meet us on Pacific Dawn at Okeover Landing. The plan was in place.

The day was beautiful. With Jens and the Elworthys on board we cruised up Waddington Channel and met Shalady, (Bart & Audrey Shaw) and Wanganui (Stan & Chris Giles) at the island. The group, the quick cure concrete, the form, tools, mixing bucket and water were skiffed to shore and the plaque was placed in the concrete. A return to Pacific Dawn for a lunch prepared by my wife Karen, and then back to the concrete based plaque. The forms were removed, and the plaque and choice of setting admired. Then a short, emotional ceremony was carried out by Terry, dedicating the island to his deceased brother, Douglas Richard Elworthy.

Best regards, Ted Thorstenson M/V Pacific Dawn

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Boat Burns in Grace Harbour, Desolation Sound 
August 31, 2009. Larry Schnetzky aboard his Tollycraft Scruples III took these pictures of a converted fish boat that burned in Grace Harbour in late July. No one was aboard when the fire started. When we saw the pictures we hurt inside.



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Reporting 101 -- or, Confirm Before Publishing 
July 28, 2009. This is why we like to confirm reports.

E-mail to Phil Richter, Blind Channel Marina Resort:

Phil

One of our readers just e-mailed a note that your spring was running dry, and you’ve had to restrict water to the docks. Details?

Bob Hale

Phil's reply:

Hi Bob,

I'm glad you checked. We've had an extended drought, and were waterless last night, causing much inconvenience. However, we've tapped into a new source, and as of 9:30 this morning are well-supplied.

Thanks, Phil Richter Blind Channel Resort

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Dog Show at Blind Channel 
July 28, 2009. Hi, Bob,

We had our Pooch, Hound, and Doggie Show yesterday, and it was great fun - it will definitely be an annual event. Here are pics.



Phil Richter Blind Channel Resort 1-888-329-0475

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Gorge Harbour Marina an Entirely New Experience 
June 16, 2009. We stopped at Gorge Harbour Resort & Marina at the south end of the Desolation Sound cruising grounds expecting a few minor changes – if a marina expansion and new docks can be considered minor. After walking around and meeting the owners, we have changed the word minor to overwhelming. Gorge Harbour has just redefined cruising in Desolation Sound.

The old paths are reshaped and surfaced with attractive pavers. The docks are new, and have more than 2000 feet of wide, stable mooring space, with 30 amp and 50 amp power. The fuel dock is brand-new – those who have been to Gorge Harbour in earlier years won’t recognize it. Up by the store, a pond we didn’t know existed (no else knew, either), is a centerpiece. A swimming pool and hot tub have been built. Barbecue and gathering decks that overlook the water have been built. Extensive rock work has been built and landscaping has been installed. An elaborate children’s play area is under construction.

We had supper at the Floathouse Restaurant. As in previous years, it was superb.

Unfortunately, in mid-June, they were still waiting for the 3-phase power hookup from BC Hydro, and the docks were without power. They believe full power will be in place by July. General construction was still under way. Bobcats and other machinery were all over the place.

Unlike many marina developments, Gorge Harbour is unabashedly designed to be children-friendly. The owners, Richard and Michelle Glickman, have young children, who will spend time here. The boy took our stern line and handled the boat beyond his years. More kids are welcome. Being children-friendly doesn’t mean non-adult, however. It just means everyone will be welcome.

Barb Hansen and Grant Clarke, shown as managers in the Waggoner, are leaving for their property on Quadra Island. Bill Dougan is taking over as manager. Bill has run the Floathouse Restaurant for three years, and has been part of the upgrading project. Tara Webb remains has store manager. Tara began working at the resort 12 years ago when she was 12, washing dishes.

Pardon our enthusiasm. If you stop at Gorge Harbour, you’ll understand.

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Groceries to the Dock at Port McNeill 
May 5, 2009. In a welcome change, the big IGA store in Port McNeill will once again be delivering groceries to the boat in Port McNeill. No more will it be necessary to wheel a grocery cart full of supplies down the street, then down the ramp and out the dock to the boat.

Although there’s no charge for the service, it would seem appropriate to thank the store employee who does the delivery in a way that is easily understood.

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Eucott Bay, Quathiaski Cove, and a Thank you 
December 15, 2008. Here’s some good information, and a thank you that makes us blush.

Dear Hales,

Thank you so much for the Waggoner Guide! We have been happily cruising the Inside Passage for the past seven years in our 50' Mikelson cutter Tenacious, and the Waggoner is by far our favorite resource for figuring out where to head next. We just received our 2009 book and are getting excited about next summer already.

We live in Sarasota, Florida, but Tenacious lives near Vancouver, B.C., so we spend 4-5 months aboard and try to get farther north and explore new places each summer. This year we enjoyed a gorgeous day in Eucott Bay. Your readers should know, however, that the entrance to the bay has silted up significantly, and is MUCH shallower than charted depths just inside the bay, where it widens out past the large slide on the west side of the entrance. If you haven't been in lately, it worth checking on. Also, the deer flies/horse flies/whatever you call those man-eating winged demons were absolutely vicious. Prepare accordingly! They travel in squadrons and laugh at our puny flyswatters. My husband caught one in his hand and tried to drown it. It continued to try to bite his hand underwater!

In the spirit of sharing new adventures, I had a very pleasant visit to the Nuyumbalees Cultural Center near Cape Mudge at the south end of Quadra Island [web site www.nuyumbalees.com]. The museum was opened in 1979, then closed for renovations and re-opened in 2007. It contains re-patriated potlatch artifacts and regalia, and is organized around the different ceremonial dances of the Kwa'Kwa'Ka' Wa'Kw people. On the lower level one can watch a movie that recreates Kwakiutl life, filmed by famed photographer Edward Curtis. There are a number of petroglyphs on the grounds of the Center and in the near vicinity. One can also make rubbings of petroglyphs next door in the House of Eagles. Adult admission was $15 (seniors $10, children and students, $5, families $30.) They are open seven days a week from 9 to 5 from May through September. Their fall/winter hours are Wed. through Sat. from 11 to 3, and they are closed in December and January.To get there I took the BC Ferry from Campbell River and took a taxi to the museum. The helpful person at the BC Ferry ticket booth kindly offered to call and arrange for the taxi to meet me. A pleasant browse in the darling gift shop at the ferry terminal at Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island rounded out a lovely afternoon.

Once again, thank you for all you do for the boating community. You and the Guide are "cultural treasures" for the boating community. We hope to meet you one day and get to thank you personally.

Best regards, Lydia and Patrick McKenzie S/V Tenacious

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From Lagoon Cove to Glendale Cove & Beyond 
July 23, 2008. Hello Bob,

We met you & Marilynn at the Lagoon Cove happy hour get-together on Monday, 6/23, and we promised to report our experiences as we continued up Knight Inlet.

As you headed up Tribune Channel toward Kwatsi Bay the next day, we headed for Glendale Cove and reached it by mid-afternoon. We spent considerable time trying to find good holding mud in the harbor just south of Macdonald Point across the cove from the Knight Inlet Lodge, but finally had to settle for a location that while it held the anchor well, there were small rocks on the bottom that rubbed the chain as Scottish Mist swung back and forth. This proved to be very annoying to some of our crew who are light sleepers. While the anchor held fast, the boat swung 360 degrees many times overnight.

The lodge is a bear watching operation. We went over to their docks to let them know we were anchored across the cove. They told us they monitor channel 68 as do most of the logging and fish farm operations in Knight Inlet.

We headed north up Knight Inlet early the next morning reaching Cascade Falls, the Spire Peaks, and Glacier Bay by mid-morning. Spire Peaks are right out of a Hollywood movie set. If you approach from the side, they appear two dimensional with height and width but no depth, like a cardboard facade.

There was no wind the morning of the 25th, so Glacier Bay was a mill pond.

Our crew, tired and cranky from the previous sleepless night, voted then to turn around and head for Sargeaunt Passage, Tribune Channel, and the comfort of Kwatsi Bay where we arrived late that afternoon.

From there we unwittingly traced your footsteps, stopping in Shawl Bay on the 26th, Sullivan Bay on the 27th, and out Wells Passage into the Queen Charlotte Strait with the morning fog and white rainbows(!) the morning of the 28th. With time running out on our Cooper Boating charter, we had to then turn east and head toward Beach Gardens Marina in Powell River.

Thank you so much for publishing the Waggoner Guide and website. You and Marilynn's efforts go a long way in getting us to return to the Northwest every other year.

John & Sandy Weed & Jim Consor Larchmont, New York

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Sullivan Bay Updates & New Phone Number 
June 17, 2008. The new managers at Sullivan Bay Marina, Debbie and Chris, sent this update along.

It's Debbie and Chris from Sullivan Bay Marina. We were here last year and this year we are the new managers at Sullivan Bay Marina. We offer the following for our boaters and friends:

1,000+ Feet of Moorage with Upgraded 15/30/50 Amp Power/Boat Sitting/Day Parking

Grocery Store & Fuel Dock Hours 9:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Fresh Dairy and Produce Delivered Weekly

BC Liquor Agency, Ice and Post Office

Happy Hour 5:00 p.m. at Sullivan Square– Bring your own appetizer to share

Laundry and Shower Facilities

Free Wireless Internet Connection

Restaurant (Opens June 15th) Sunday Nights - Turkey Dinner Monday Nights - Mexican Monday Dinner

4th of July Barbeque with Band – Reservations Recommended

Airport – Connections to Port McNeill, Port Hardy, Vancouver, Campbell River & U.S.A. Destinations

Contact Info: Debbie & Chris - VHF Channel 66A, E-Mail: sullivanbaymarina@gmail.com, Phone: (604) 629-9900

Lots of Smiles and Friendly Staff Atmosphere here at Sullivan Bay Marina

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Wind Can Still Blow in Small Inlet 
August 14, 2007. Small Inlet is a beautiful spot a short distance north of Seymour Narrows, in British Columbia. For years, the Waggoner has run a sidebar extolling the virtues of carrying a big anchor—based on a night of very strong winds in Small Inlet. This note affirms that the wind still can blow there.

Hi Robert,

Reference the sidebar on page 227 of the 2007 Waggoner, we couldn't agree more. Last summer Kathy and I marveled at the beauty and tranquility of the anchorage, had a lovely dinner and settled into our bunk. Even though there had been a lot of wind in the area, we were secure in the belief that this was a very protected anchorage. About midnight, all hell broke loose -- easily 30 to 35 knot winds. After checking rode and doing all the appropriate things, we resigned ourselves to an all-night anchor watch because neither of us could sleep with all the ruckus.

Since that time, at least two sources have recommended Small Inlet as a protected anchorage. Good for you for setting the record straight!

Kathy and Mark Moore Sea Star GB 36 Classic #358

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Proctor Book Recommendation

September 27, 2004. The Waggoner urges readers who plan to cruise the Broughtons to buy and read Bill Proctor's recent book, Full Moon, Flood Tide, to get a fuller appreciation of that fabulous cruising area. Here is a hands-on recommendation from some fellow cruisers.

Dear Bob,

Bill Proctor's (with Yvonne Maximchuk) new book Full Moon, Flood Tide is an absolutely delightful way to get to know the Broughtons and surrounding area in a unique and in-depth way. We can't recommend it enough. We stopped by to tell Billy so, and in the process picked up some extra local knowledge from Billy's wife, Yvonne [same first name as Yvonne Maximchuk -- ed].

We used Bill Proctor's book every day, and visited almost all the places it describes. Without the book we never would have known what we were looking at.

Three places particularly struck us: the head of Viner Sound with its old logging railway; Watson Cove on Tribune Channel, with its hidden waterfall (although not so hidden after three days of rain) and nearby ancient cedar tree; and best of all, the Ahta River at the head of Bond Sound, an absolutely pristine salmon spawning river, teeming with every sort of wildlife from very large, dead salmon that have just completed their life cycle, to very much larger hairy brown mammals that feed on them (and just about anything else they want to). The place is like something from a fairy tale, and not all that easy to find and explore, but very much worth it. . . .

As usual, the Waggoner was with us throughout our cruise, and was indispensable. Thanks for such a wonderful publication.

John and Lorraine Littlewood

For those who don't know, the Broughtons is the name generally applied to the inlets, islands and waterways that lie on the mainland side of Queen Charlotte Strait, north of Johnstone Strait but still inside Vancouver Island. The area includes the islands adjacent to Blackfish Sound and Fife Sound. It also includes Knight Inlet, Kingcome Inlet, Tribune Channel, Drury Inlet and MacKenzie Sound.

Locals call this area the Mainland, to distinguish it from the Vancouver Island side, which they call North Island.

I think the Broughtons are the next sexy cruising area in the Northwest, an area with a history, grandeur and appeal that Desolation Sound had 25 years ago. It's up there and it's exciting, and most cruisers haven't visited it yet. -- Bob Hale

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For more updates:

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U.S. Customs Updates

Canada Customs Updates

General Updates

Puget Sound & San Juan Islands

Strait of Juan de Fuca and Strait of Georgia, including B.C.'s Gulf Islands

Desolation Sound to top of Vancouver Island

Central & Northern B.C. Coast

West Coast of Vancouver Island
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